Latest Knitting

I've been knitting the February Lady Sweater from Flint Knits for a while now and was getting a bit bored. Nothing to do with the pattern, I think it's mainly frustration because I can't find the right buttons to go on it! Here's where I'm up to:Here's a close up of the (unblocked) lace pattern. The pattern is really pretty and the I love the colour. I'm not sure we are going to have a winter this year in which I can wear it since here we are towards the end of autumn and it's 28 degrees (celsius) and sunny every day.
Anyway, to stave off my boredom I started the entrelac scarf from Knitting Daily. The yarn is called Kaleidescope from Cleckheaton. I ended up having to buy extra wool so it is turning out to not be a terribly cheap project but it is super fun to knit and I would urge anyone with a bit of knitting experience to give it a go. If you can pick up and knit stitches you won't have any trouble.
Here's a close up (unblocked). I love how it's turning out.

In closing I'd like to give a big shout out to all those clever people who create (knitting/crochet/whatever) patterns and then generously share them with those of us who are only clever enough to execute their instructions.

New Look 6407 - Teal Blouse

This is a basic blouse made from New Look 6407. I am a little obsessed with blouses this autumn/winter, I'm not sure why as I am certainly NOT obsessed with ironing! I haven't made a blouse in quite a long time but I am reasonably happy with how it turned out.

I like that it doesn't have a traditional collar fastening, but opens to a v-neck - much more flattering on me. However it's quite low, even for me who doesn't generally have a problem with cleavage! Not indecent, but you might not want to bend over in front of anyone.

The neckline looks a little buckled on the dummy but I'm pretty sure it's fine on me.

I made the version with the 3/4 sleeves and split cuffs.

For the collar I used the method I saw described a while ago, where you cut the collar in one piece and join it at the centre back of the under collar. I have been dying to try this out and it turned out so nice! I'm very sorry but I can't find the link to the original tutorial, so if you wrote it or know who did, please let me know so I can give credit.

I didn't make an FBA, and didn't need it. If you are not well-ish endowed then you might want to cut a smaller size or reduce the bust measurement if you want a close fitting blouse.

The fabric is 100% cotton voile and is sheer, which is why I am not modelling it. I have made it to layer under a waistcoat so you'll just have to wait to see the two pieces together.

Finally a Finished Garment

I decided on Vogue 1099 for my first post-slump project. The thought of matching bias cut plaid in my fragile state was just too much, but it'll happen soon. This is the only photo I could get of it on me before the camera battery ran out, so apologies for the poor quality. You'll have to believe me when I say it fits well and is very comfortable.

Here's a dummy shot of the front:
The back:

And the side:

Here is a closer detail of the sleeve:
And the bias collar and contrast upper collar (which you can barely see on the pattern envelope). I used black polyester organza.
This pattern went together a treat. Even though it's definitely not for beginners, with patience and accuracy you can get a really nice result.

I added bias strips of lightweight knit interfacing to the hems of the body and sleeves to give them some body (I'm glad I did). I also treated the bottom edge of the front facing in my favourite way, which give a much nicer result than the method described in the instructions.

First I apply bias binding to the lower edge of the front facing. I press out the fold on the underside and just attach it flat to reduce bulk.

Once you sew across the bottom edge of the facing and jacket, you get a nice finished edge that can be hand stitched down.

I hope this means my mojo is back to stay. I thought seriously about entering the vintage pattern competition on PR, but I am so far behind and so lacking in clothes ATM that I have decided to churn out some more practical garments and save the vintage stuff for I time when I can give it the love and attention it deserves.

On a parting note, I didn't do very well in month one of my stash reducing plan. March was an unproductive sewing month when new seasons shirtings came into the shops. What's a girl to do?

Wow, that's a lot of fabric

So I finished cataloguing my stash, a couple of weeks ago actually I just haven’t had the time or energy to blog lately! The grand total is 158.35m – is that a lot? I am a little surprised but not horrified by the amount, although I have now set myself two goals:

1. To use more than I buy each month, and
2. To have a total of 100m or less by the end of this year.

I’ll set up a little tally to monitor my progress.

My lovely new file of samples has been a bonus to me recently. Like most of you I am planning my change of season wardrobe, but unlike those of you in the northern part of the world I am looking towards Autumn and Winter. We are lucky here in Perth that our winters are mild so we have the opportunity to wear fab winter styles but without having to deal with bulky layers. Generally a fine gauge knit and a jacket or coat are sufficient. Plus I always wear my favourite winter accessory – a knit or crochet scarf. I guess you could say it’s my signature (actually I just get a really cold neck!).

I have loads of exciting projects lined up so now all I have to do is figure out where to start. I have almost decided on two jackets – the new Badgely Mishka jacket (V1099) and the bias cut plaid number from BWOF (09-2007-105). I have everything I require and now just need to get cracking. One perk of my job (not that there are many lately) is that I am entitled to flexi-time, so I am taking a well-earned day off on Friday and plan to devoted a chunk of time to cutting out. So don’t give up on me just yet, I promise I’ll have something to show very soon.

My Mojo Went on Holiday and Left me Behind

I have a confession to make.

I have not sewn a stitch in over three weeks! This is very unlike me and I am itching to make something, but I am just totally exhausted right now.

I remember writing before Christmas about how I was looking forward to getting my workload under control in the new year. Sadly that has not happened. In fact, it is worse! I am feeling so stressed out that I have developed eczema on my back (I’ve never had eczema before) and the week before last I got a sty in my eye. Since stys (is that how you spell it/them?) are not contagious I ended up having to go to work with my left eye all swollen and purple, and VERY painful! I just have to slog through this really busy time until it gets sorted out – although I’m not sure how that will happen. Please be patient with me in the meantime.

I am a little bored with summer clothes and even though I didn’t get through everything on my list (who ever does that?) I think I will move on to some Autumn and Winter garments to re-ignite my interest. I have been putting a fair amount of thought into what I’d like to make for the coming cooler months and I just need to get a final plan together. I am still working with the very small closet concept for my work wear so I need to make sure that I have two complete looks for each bottom piece. There are also some casual pieces I need, chiefly jeans - so a couple of pairs are definitely on the cards.

The other sewing related job I’ve been doing is cataloguing my stash. I’ve never done this before and it’s kinda fun, if a little overwhelming. I don’t have a problem with an enormous stash – when I see nice, good quality fabric, I’ll buy it whether or not I have a project in mind. Some years there just doesn’t seem to be anything I like in the shops and others I just go mad! Having said that though, I am having a few “What the…” moments! I can’t wait to finally tally up how much fabric I own. I dare say it will be a scary figure!

I’ve been doing a little knitting (it’s about as much as I can manage at the moment) so I hope I will have a new knitted project to show off soon.

On the up side it is a long weekend in Western Australia this week so, fingers crossed, I will find my mojo and get cracking on a fab new project soon.

Vogue 8392 - Voile Top

My latest summer top is from Vogue 8392, a pattern that it's fair to say has had mixed reviews. I love the ruffled sleeve versions made by others but I bought this fabric as a remnant so I had no hope of making that view. I was concerned the plain sleeves would be a dowdy length but they're okay. I don't love it, but I don't hate it either.



The fabric is, as mentioned, a remnant. It's cotton voile that I bought from Tessuti when I was in Sydney (the same trip I bought my black coat fabric - and another piece that I haven't used yet). It is a very nice quality, not like the cheap stuff you buy that just shrivels up in the wash - after pre-washing in the machine I didn't even need to press it before cutting out the pattern.

I made a 2cm fba which resulted in a small bust dart on the side seam. I wanted that, I thought it would make the top a bit less boxy.

I used french seams throughout except the armhole. Rather than bind the armhole seam as I normally would, I stitched 6mm away from the seamline then trimmed the excess seam allowance. I then ran a row of zigzag over the second stitching line to neaten it. The resulting finish doesn't add any bulk to the armhole seam so it sits smoothly and isn't too stiff.

Like several other reviewers, wasn't happy with the slit, hook and eye solution at the back neck. I toyed with adding a placket and tiny buttons - which would have been cute, but in the end I didn't bother. What I did do was follow the instructions in Roberta Carr's book to add a little bow to conceal the hook. I also made a thread eye (instead of using the metal one) as I find they stay shut better.

Look very closely and you might be able to see the little bow! Of course it will always be hidden under my hair anyway but that's not the point is it?

Here is a detail shot of the front pleats and neck binding, I have to say I wish the pleats were a bit more distinctive. If I make this again it will be in a slightly thicker fabric and a plain colour. It would look great in a silk crepe or similar.

It's forecast to be very hot this week (41C on Thursday) so I'll probably be very grateful for such a lightweight top.

Simplicity 3838, Floral Silk Top

I was a little dubious about this project for three reasons:

-

1. The print, which is a little bolder than I'd normally choose.
2. The style, which could look a bit maternity if I was unlucky.
3. The fabric, which is very lightweight and may not have had enough drape and therefore stick out in the front.

-

Overall though I am really happy with this top...

Back view...

Hmm, you can see the invisible zip a little in the band section - I'll have to go back and get a bit closer there!

-

The pattern is Simplicity 3838, which I have just realised is OOP. I'm not sure how I managed to look past the hideous photo on the pattern envelope, but I'm glad I did.

-

I made a 2cm FBA but other than that it's a straight size 12.

-

The main fabric is silk (china silk weight) and the bands are made from black linen.

-

Rather than turn under the edges of the bands and topstitch them down I used my interfacing to make a neater edge. I sewed the centre seam on the fabric and interfacing (overlap and stitch the interfacing), then I trimmed the full seam allowance off everywhere except the outside edge. I laid the pieces right sides (non-sticky side of the interfacing) together and then stitched around the outside edge. I trimmed carefully and clipped the seam then turned the piece right side out. I very carefully pressed around the edge to make sure it fused nicely, then I fused the whole piece.

I then attached the band to the top as per the instructions, hand basting it in place first.
The other thing I did differently (and I forgot to take a picture) is the way I treated the midriff band. On the facing piece I turned under the ends about 2cm (and trimmed) before joining it to the top part - this is to reduce bulk when inserting the zip. Next I turned in the seam allowance on the bottom of the midriff band and hand stitched it in place. The pattern has the raw edges exposed on the bottom part of the band - not pretty.
-
Invisible zips are a real challenge for me, I don't know why. Maybe I am too much of a perfectionist or I just don't have the knack. Whatever it is I can never insert an invisible zip without some swear words! This one was no exception, I just couldn't get the bottom part of the seam to match up nicely and after unpicking several times the fabric started to look very fragile. I ended up have to make a couple of hand stitches but sssh, don't tell anyone!
-
Because I like the inside to look as pretty as the outside (unless I'm being lazy) I made all the seams french except the armhole and centre back, which I bound. I then hand stitched the bound seam to the midriff facing to hide the bit that I turned under earlier. Here's the inside (before I had done the hem - which is just double turned and machine stitched).
-

So that's it, what do you think? I was a bit worried it would 'wear me' rather than the other way around but I actually think it's quite cute and cheerful.

I've Been Nominated

This is my first time being nominated for a blogger award so I must say I'm pretty excited. I have received not one but two in the past two days and that has really put a smile on my face!

-

Thanks to Lisa Laree at Sew Random and to Maria Elena. These are both new blogs to me so an extra bonus is that I now have two fab new blogs to keep up with. Maria Elena doesn't speak english so I plugged this in to an internet translator and I hope it makes sense:

-

Maria Elena, gracias por su nombramiento amable y gracias por introducirme a su blog. Estoy muy agradecido.

-

Now I have to pass the award on to seven other blogs. This is hard, to limit myself to only seven blogs that I love reading. I'm sure we are all familiar with the inspiration that other peoples work brings, and I particularly enjoy those blogs that show detailed processes and fine finishes. Anyway, here are my seven (sorry, I think most of these have been nominated before):

-

AlisonC Sewing Gallery. Have you seen Alison's new Burda vest - it's really stunning.

Amanda's Adventures in Sewing. Amanda makes the cutest outfits - I love the colours she chooses.

Tany Sews and Knits. The first sewing blog I found and still one of the most inspirational!

Miss Celie's Pants. Reading Cidell's blog is like chatting to a good girlfriend.

Le Mani D'oro. Anne makes really stylish garments and posts in French and English

-

And my fellow Aussies at:

Lower Your Presser Foot. Ditto everyone else's comments Kristy, we understand you are way too busy with your precious new baby to be blogging much these days.

Sew Tessuti. Since visiting the Surrey Hills store on a recent business trip I am constantly angling to go back to Sydney (a four-hour flight away). I still smile every time I look at the oat I made from fabric I bought there - even though I don't have much use for it at the moment!

-

That's all for now. I have a couple of projects that I will do my best to update over the weekend.

Thanks again for making me feel included!

It's Made From Grass

Yes I have made a cardigan out of grass, bamboo being a type of grass after all. The yarn is Cleckheaton 100% Bamboo and the pattern is from this Cleckheaton book. I made the second size (small - finished measurement 85cm).


This is a fairly easy knit but be warned it involves many, many rows of boring stocking stitch. The yarn is 4-ply weight and the needles used are 3.25mm. As the body and yoke are knit in one piece there are a lot of stitches too. This is definitely a project to work on while watching TV or DVDs. The Sopranos seasons 4, 5 and 6 got me a long way through this cardigan!

Normally I am not much of a blocker, I usually figure normal washing and gravity will take care of any 'quirks' of tension. Since I am trying to be better at doing things the right way I decided to block this by soaking it in lukewarm soapy water and patting it to shape on a towel and leaving it to dry.

Thank goodness I decided to do this as look what happened to the water the second I got the cardigan wet:

And this was the rinse water!

The cardigan has amazing drape and feels beautiful am I am really pleased with it. The only thing I would do differently would be to add some knitting-in elastic to the neckband - the fantastic drape comes with stretch and the neckline has grown a lot already. I'm not sure how I will deal with this.


The lace edging is only 7 rows at the beginning of the body and sleeves and it's really simple, as I said before getting bored is the only risk in this project. It is, however definitely worth persevering.


What I like most about this cardigan is that it means I can get away with wearing an ordinary tank top to work!

McCall's M5597 - The Almost Perfect Skirt

My black A-line skirt needed to be retired so I decided to replace it with a black pencil skirt. I really can't believe I've avoided pencil skirts for so long, they are actually quite flattering on a barge-arse! I used M5597, which modestly refers to itself as 'the perfect suit'. Well I don't know about the rest of the garments, but if the skirt is anything to go by, it's pretty darn good IMHO.

Hmm, I really wanted to get my new shoes into the shot (half price at Nine West), sadly my photographer didn't share my priorities. Conscious that I'm luck to have a photographer on hand at all, I didn't push it

This is the back view and it shows the only design flaw in my belief. I much prefer a vent at the back to a plain split (I mean I don't think the back of anyone's knees are attractive!). I didn't change it as I wanted to see if it would look okay, it does - just not perfect.

Here is an embarrassing insight into my life that illustrates why I like vents. While I understand (but can't comprehend) how FREEZING it is in the northern hemisphere, back here has been the hottest January on record. On Friday it was just shy of 42 degrees (that's around 108 to you fahrenheit people). I have taken to wearing long-line shorts under my skirts for comfort when it's really hot (like shapewear but not so tight). Well, let's just say I regretted that choice when I wore this skirt to work the other day. The shorts don't show below the skirt normally, but when walking they do peek through the split. Not to mention that was the day I got my stiletto stuck in the pavement and pulled off my shoe TWICE! And I've never even done that once before. I am so uncool! Moving right along...

Here's the side view.

This pattern is well drafted, goes together easily and fits really well. It doesn't have a lining which is just weird, so I added one, and I used an invisible zip. I felt there was a touch too much ease in the skirt piece so it's a little ripple-y at the yoke seam, but I think that's because I used a stretch woven, if I'd used wool it probably would have steamed out fine. You might was to check this for yourself if you choose to make one.

PS. Sew4fun, I WISH I was Hugh Jackman's dresser! No, I dressed a couple of the guys in the chorus (both really nice guys), but Hugh was lovely, always friendly and said hello, and never complained when starstruck crew members wanted their photo taken with him. *sigh*

Happy Blogoversary to Me

So it’s my blogoversary...

When I first stumbled on fashion and sewing (and fashion sewing) blogs and sites like Pattern Review about 18 months ago (I can’t even remember how it happened now) it was as if a whole world opened up. Even though I have friends and family who are interested in fashion and sewing, I just love reading about people’s projects from all over the world. I really thought long and hard before starting my own blog as a) I wasn’t sure what I had to contribute to the sewing community and b) I wasn’t sure I had the dedication it would take. So here I am, a whole year later, having managed 57 posts which is a reasonable rate IMHO, I have had times where life got in the way or my mojo went on holiday and other times where I have been super-productive. But overall I have achieved my aims in starting my blog, namely to improve my standards and stop being lazy, and to stay motivated to sew more of my own clothes.

To celebrate I am not going to do an annual retrospective, but I am going to follow Lindsay T’s lead and give you my sewing back story…

One of my earliest and most favourite Christmas memories is the sounds I always heard on Christmas Eve after my sister and I had gone to bed. The wonderful, deep slicing sound of shears against the kitchen table (I still love that sound) and the whirring and rattling of the sewing machine. I didn’t know what exactly those sounds were but I knew they meant that on Christmas morning I would wake up and my sister and I would have a new dress each, made with love by our Mum. They were always identical except the colour and every year I loved and looked forward to my Christmas dress. I never felt that home made was ‘less than’ – I’ve always believed (even at that young age) that love and craftsmanship counted for more than the label on the inside.

When I was about 7 or 8 I started dance classes, which meant dancing costumes and my Mum patiently made those for me too.

The girl in the shamrock dress is my sister but I love the costume-I really wished it was mine. Our concert that year had an international theme - I scored the hula! I am probably about 7 or 8 here.

This lovely Spanish number is made from poplin. And I LOVED this jumpsuit (you can't tell from the picture but it's shorts). Mum took the tinsel off after the concert and I wore it everywhere until I grew out of it!

Thank goodness I was not talented at dance and didn’t carry on past my early teens, it must have been such a pressure on Mum as she always worked full time and, after I was 13, she was a single mother. I used to watch her sewing on sequins and wish that I could help but she would never let me. All the nagging must have worked though because she started to teach me to sew – by hand. She helped me cut out an evening dress for my Sindy doll – cobalt blue voile with white ribbon for the straps and belt. My reward for making this dress entirely by hand was my first sewing machine.

Ah, my first machine! It was a Holly Hobby design and had a crank that fitted into the fly wheel so I could wind by hand at first, then it had a little foot peddle that I moved onto when I was confident enough. It didn’t do zig zag or anything but I loved it, not to mention I had the best dressed dolls in the neighbourhood!

At about 15 I started making my own clothes and let me tell you there were some shockers! I didn’t really use patterns then but just felt my way through it. I believe this has helped me later in life with pattern drafting and fitting as I developed a sense of how a flat piece of fabric can be made to cover a curved surface.

Here's my year 10 formal dress (I'm 15) check out the fingerless gloves - I crocheted them! And yes, I did like 'A Flock of Seagulls'!

And next is my year 12 formal dress, it was 1986 and I was channeling Kylie Minogue with the hairdo (I should be so lucky!). I don't know what was going on with the dress - all I can remember is that I thought it ROCKED.

After year 11 I applied and was accepted to fashion design at the local technical college but I was convinced to complete high school as I had good grades (yes, I know, it was good advice!). I ended up studying psychology at university and after a round about journey ended up in market research.



For some reason I didn't do much sewing at this stage in my life. I did a lot of cross stitch, embroidery and bobbin lacemaking. On a trip to the UK in 2001 I even did a short course at the Royal School of Needlework.

After 61/2 years as a consultant I was burned out and completely miserable so I decided to pack it in and finally pursue my dreams, studying costume at WAAPA. I had a brilliant 3 years of study (at least I was sewing again even if it was for other people more than myself) and then 2 years scraping a living working as a theatre dresser, in a fancy dress shop, at a bridal design studio and in a fabric shop (where I also started teaching).

Working as a dresser on 'Boy From Oz'. Best. Job. Ever.

Sadly part time and casual work isn't enough for a single girl on the wrong side of 35 with a mortgage so when an opportunity came up to go back to market research I took it.

So that's where I am now. Constantly battling to maintain my work-life balance as I know all too well the consequences of letting that slide, but nevertheless happy that for the first time in five years I don't have to choose between paying bills and eating (or, more realistically, getting in more debt!). I'm also happy to have an outlet for my creative side, I have discovered that career wear really is my niche and it's great to be able to afford nice fabrics to work with. I'm also happy that I did decide to start this blog a year ago. I am chuffed to bits that anyone stops by and over the moon when I get comments from people. Sometimes when I feel work start to get on top of me I read my favourite blogs and I am reminded that so many of you have the same issues (namely you'd rather sew than just about anything else!), I just love that sense of connection.

So welcome to any new readers and thanks to any regulars for sticking with me. I hope you enjoy my little walk down memory lane. Feel free to chuckle at my shameful photos (I know I did!) but please don't judge - I am a victim of the times!

BWOF 07-2008-108 Tunic Part 2

Today I'll show you how I face a sleeveless top without hand sewing. It's not that I am against hand sewing - in fact I really enjoy it but I find this method give a really high quality result without bulky seam allowances getting in the way. I learned it when I was working in bridal, where we used it on halter tops and sleeveless bodices. This tunic isn't strictly sleeveless so it's a bit easier than normal (you would usually have to sew the armhole in two stages) but the principle is the same so you might like to try it.

OK. So I have finished the lower armhole and joined the yokes to the rest of the tunic. I have also sewn the shoulder seams in the yoke facings.

The first thing to do is to sew the neck seam, understitch it on the facing side and then clip and press (this is the order that works best for me - and it give the smoothest results).

This next part involves a little maths. If you use seam allowances other than 1.5cm (5/8") then you will need to work this out for yourself. My little brain took ages to figure it out for 1.5cm!

Trim 0.5cm off the armhole edge of your facings, this will ensure that the facing rolls nicely to the inside of the top.



Next, open the top out so it looks like the picture below. The shoulder seams are running horizontally. Forgive my photo, I don't have photo editing software so I had to do this in crappy old paint.



Get hold of the armhole ends of the shoulder seams, facing in your left hand and yoke in your right. Bring your left hand around behind the top and match the seam ends in your right hand then pin them together. Don't think about this too much - it will hurt your brain. The top will resemble a fortune cookie at this point.
Work your way out from the seam until the entire facing edge is pinned to the yoke edge. You will need to wiggle and adjust as you go but it can be done. If the entire armhole is faced, you'll need to do this in two goes.
Sew in a 1cm seam (not 1.5cm because of what you trimmed off earlier). Your seam will not match up to the finished edge of the lower armhole but when you turn everything through to the right side you will find the yoke and facing roll nicely to the inside and look really smooth and neat. You can understitch this seam too. It is tricky but worth the patience. This is the finished armhole from the inside.
The next stage is to sew down the facings to the yoke seams on the inside. You can turn under the edge and stitch in the ditch, which is what I planned to do, but in the end I decided to hand sew this part. It really didn't take long and gave a really nice finish.

Here is the finished top. I made a narrow rolled hem on the bottom. Despite my best efforts it's a bit wonky but I intend to only wear it tucked in.
Here it is tucked in, as I'll wear it to work, bear in mind that I am a little larger than my dummy.
I'm pretty pleased with the way this top turned out. The silk satin is beautiful and not too shiny for daytime. There are a couple of creases that I can't shift so I am going to have to take it to the drycleaner to press it for me but after that it should be fairly easy-care since I pre-washed the fabric.