Wardrobe Comp Review - MSB 148-24

Pattern Description:
A-line skirt with pockets.

Pattern Sizing:
The pattern is provided as a diagram and you use your own waist and hip measurements to draft it. This pattern is as straightforward as they come. Even if you've never drafted a pattern before this skirt is super-easy.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes.


Were the instructions easy to follow?
Well, if I read Japanese I am sure they would be! Seriously, instructions are not needed. Patch pockets, a couple of darts, seams, zip, hem - that's it! Although I did add lining to three of my versions.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I love that it's quick and easy to make and suitable for a wide variety of fabrics/looks. For an a-line skirt it doesn't look too triangular, which is one of my pet hates.


Fabric Used:
The two versions shown here are made from:

Olive suiting (the selvedge says it's cashmere/silk, but I am skeptical) and taupe wool gabardine

I have made this pattern twice previously (see here and here).

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:
I added a lining.
I stabilised the waistline with selvedge cut from silk organza.

I trimmed the hem with bias binding. I used offcuts from my yet-to-be-finished floral blouse on the olive skirt and some black/white gingham from stash for the taupe skirt. I left the pockets off these two versions.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I have worn the grey version to death and the cotton version is my go-to weekend skirt in summer. So I dare say I won't stop at four versions!

Conclusion:
This is a simple pattern to draft, a simple skirt to make and very flattering.

Wardrobe Comp Review - Simplicity 3800

Pattern Description:
Twist front t-shirt with cap sleeves. This is a fairly unflattering picture, the flash bounced off all the wrong places!

Pattern Sizing:
I cut a 12.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes, definitely

Were the instructions easy to follow?
The instructions were fine. I don't sew a lot of knits but it was pretty straightforward. I did iron on bias tape to the front and back necklines to stabilise them. The twist is cute but it was a PITA to sew right up close to it, there is just such a lot of fabric at the intersection. I ended up taking a few hand stitches to close the opening up tighter. The picture below has a pin in it, if you look closely you can see the bump.






What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I like the twist which makes it a bit more than a standard t-shirt. The cut of it is flattering too, good at disguising the 'fluff'. I didn't like that my hem ended up a bit ripply - not too bad but not perfect either, so I stabilised the sleeve hems with a double sided iron on tape. Next time I will cut the sleeves twice and make a lining.

Fabric Used:
It's a polyester jersey with the brand name 'cavalli'. It's a lovely medium weight jersey that doesn't cling.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:
I made a sway back adjustment and narrowed the upper center back by 3cm at the neck tapering to nothing at the waist. These are alterations I make to most patterns. I didn't do an fba as I couldn't work out how on earth I could do it! It fits okay in the bust though.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes to both.

Conclusion:
This was a quick and easy top with a flattering result.

Rain Rain Go Away

Hi everyone.

Please don't take my absence as a sign of inactivity (as it normally would be), I can promise you I have been extremely productive! I now have four completed garments for my wardrobe plan, well three plus one skirt needing hand finishing, but no photos or reviews yet. The weather here is still really crappy so I can't get outside to have photos taken and my house looks like a bachelor's pad exploded since my fella has brought over all the belongings he had left at his old house! He has promised me that this weekend he will go through all his "stuff" and decide what to keep and what to toss. Then I just have to find room for it all! Still he actually moved in about four or five months ago so it's about time really.

So, back to the wardrobe plan. While I have completed 40% of my garments, it by no means represents 40% of the workload. I started small. I have made the two skirts and two t-shirts, and they all came out quite well. I promise photos and reviews will happen soon (or else I'll get too far behind!).

I did have some photos taken of me in my toiles (pants and jacket) which was extremely valuable as it made me realise that niether of them are quite 'there' yet. The jacket needs an fba and the pants still need work (curse my fat ass!), but having joined the pork club at work (we weigh in each week and support each other through the 3pm chocolate cravings - and the person who loses least each week gets to have a little stuffed pig on their desk all week) I am putting that off for the time being!

I have cut out the ivory tunic, which will be my next project, and the floral blouse, which will be a snip now I've figured out how to gather on my overlocker (better late than never I suppose). I still can't get it to do coverstitch right though.

I am still not convinced about the pale lemon top. I am almost certain to change the pattern but have realised the fabric doesn't really excite me - it looks like something the Queen Mother would have worn in hospital, so whatever I make will have to be quite special to overcome that. Or I'll have to find a replacement fabric. I have also decided that I will make a navy skirt instead of pants. I just have more of a need for skirts right now.

Here are a couple of dummy shots to prove I have been working!

As soon as the sun comes out I'll get proper photos (as long as my fella doesn't get called into work).

The teal twist top:

Cream ponti-de-roma t-shirt.
Olive a-line skirt:

BWOF 01-2009-124 Herringbone Waistcoat

One of my favourite TV shows is The IT Crowd. In the third season Jen, the female character, wears a really cute blouse and waistcoast combo.

I re-created it in my own way. Here's the front:
And the back:

You'll recognise the blouse from my previous post. The waistcoat is from the January 09 BWOF.

I cut a size 38 down to the bottom of the armholes, then graded out to a 42 at the waist and I made an FBA.

I used fusible bias tabe to stabilise the neck and armholes and pretty much followed the instructions except for the armholes. I never get a nice finish when I join the shoulders after sewing the armholes so this is how I did mine.

Sew the waistcoat shell and lining, leaving a gap in the centre back of the lining. Sew the lining and shell together all around the outside, turn through and press well. I didn't topstich as I thought it might look a bit weird on the plain back.

Now on to the armholes, turn in the raw edges on an armhole (I did it at the side seam) roughly and pin them together (don't worry this is just a marker, not for construction):

Reach inside through the hole in the centre back and pinch the raw edges you just turned in. Pull the edges out through the whole and remove the first pin.

Now start pinning around the armhole as far as you can. You might need to start over if you get a bit confused - it takes a while to get the hang of it. I usually sew from the side seam to just past the shoulder seam on the first go. This is after the first pass, see the opening in the upper right hand side of the armhole?

Then untangle your waistcoat, go in through the hole again and sew the remainder of the armhole. Trim and press your seams.

The finished armhole:

Overall, it's a pretty cute outfit. I'm not sure how far into winter I'll get before I have to change from a cotton blouse to something warmer, but it will do for a while at least!

New Look 6407 - Teal Blouse

This is a basic blouse made from New Look 6407. I am a little obsessed with blouses this autumn/winter, I'm not sure why as I am certainly NOT obsessed with ironing! I haven't made a blouse in quite a long time but I am reasonably happy with how it turned out.

I like that it doesn't have a traditional collar fastening, but opens to a v-neck - much more flattering on me. However it's quite low, even for me who doesn't generally have a problem with cleavage! Not indecent, but you might not want to bend over in front of anyone.

The neckline looks a little buckled on the dummy but I'm pretty sure it's fine on me.

I made the version with the 3/4 sleeves and split cuffs.

For the collar I used the method I saw described a while ago, where you cut the collar in one piece and join it at the centre back of the under collar. I have been dying to try this out and it turned out so nice! I'm very sorry but I can't find the link to the original tutorial, so if you wrote it or know who did, please let me know so I can give credit.

I didn't make an FBA, and didn't need it. If you are not well-ish endowed then you might want to cut a smaller size or reduce the bust measurement if you want a close fitting blouse.

The fabric is 100% cotton voile and is sheer, which is why I am not modelling it. I have made it to layer under a waistcoat so you'll just have to wait to see the two pieces together.

Finally a Finished Garment

I decided on Vogue 1099 for my first post-slump project. The thought of matching bias cut plaid in my fragile state was just too much, but it'll happen soon. This is the only photo I could get of it on me before the camera battery ran out, so apologies for the poor quality. You'll have to believe me when I say it fits well and is very comfortable.

Here's a dummy shot of the front:
The back:

And the side:

Here is a closer detail of the sleeve:
And the bias collar and contrast upper collar (which you can barely see on the pattern envelope). I used black polyester organza.
This pattern went together a treat. Even though it's definitely not for beginners, with patience and accuracy you can get a really nice result.

I added bias strips of lightweight knit interfacing to the hems of the body and sleeves to give them some body (I'm glad I did). I also treated the bottom edge of the front facing in my favourite way, which give a much nicer result than the method described in the instructions.

First I apply bias binding to the lower edge of the front facing. I press out the fold on the underside and just attach it flat to reduce bulk.

Once you sew across the bottom edge of the facing and jacket, you get a nice finished edge that can be hand stitched down.

I hope this means my mojo is back to stay. I thought seriously about entering the vintage pattern competition on PR, but I am so far behind and so lacking in clothes ATM that I have decided to churn out some more practical garments and save the vintage stuff for I time when I can give it the love and attention it deserves.

On a parting note, I didn't do very well in month one of my stash reducing plan. March was an unproductive sewing month when new seasons shirtings came into the shops. What's a girl to do?

Vogue 8392 - Voile Top

My latest summer top is from Vogue 8392, a pattern that it's fair to say has had mixed reviews. I love the ruffled sleeve versions made by others but I bought this fabric as a remnant so I had no hope of making that view. I was concerned the plain sleeves would be a dowdy length but they're okay. I don't love it, but I don't hate it either.



The fabric is, as mentioned, a remnant. It's cotton voile that I bought from Tessuti when I was in Sydney (the same trip I bought my black coat fabric - and another piece that I haven't used yet). It is a very nice quality, not like the cheap stuff you buy that just shrivels up in the wash - after pre-washing in the machine I didn't even need to press it before cutting out the pattern.

I made a 2cm fba which resulted in a small bust dart on the side seam. I wanted that, I thought it would make the top a bit less boxy.

I used french seams throughout except the armhole. Rather than bind the armhole seam as I normally would, I stitched 6mm away from the seamline then trimmed the excess seam allowance. I then ran a row of zigzag over the second stitching line to neaten it. The resulting finish doesn't add any bulk to the armhole seam so it sits smoothly and isn't too stiff.

Like several other reviewers, wasn't happy with the slit, hook and eye solution at the back neck. I toyed with adding a placket and tiny buttons - which would have been cute, but in the end I didn't bother. What I did do was follow the instructions in Roberta Carr's book to add a little bow to conceal the hook. I also made a thread eye (instead of using the metal one) as I find they stay shut better.

Look very closely and you might be able to see the little bow! Of course it will always be hidden under my hair anyway but that's not the point is it?

Here is a detail shot of the front pleats and neck binding, I have to say I wish the pleats were a bit more distinctive. If I make this again it will be in a slightly thicker fabric and a plain colour. It would look great in a silk crepe or similar.

It's forecast to be very hot this week (41C on Thursday) so I'll probably be very grateful for such a lightweight top.

Simplicity 3838, Floral Silk Top

I was a little dubious about this project for three reasons:

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1. The print, which is a little bolder than I'd normally choose.
2. The style, which could look a bit maternity if I was unlucky.
3. The fabric, which is very lightweight and may not have had enough drape and therefore stick out in the front.

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Overall though I am really happy with this top...

Back view...

Hmm, you can see the invisible zip a little in the band section - I'll have to go back and get a bit closer there!

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The pattern is Simplicity 3838, which I have just realised is OOP. I'm not sure how I managed to look past the hideous photo on the pattern envelope, but I'm glad I did.

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I made a 2cm FBA but other than that it's a straight size 12.

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The main fabric is silk (china silk weight) and the bands are made from black linen.

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Rather than turn under the edges of the bands and topstitch them down I used my interfacing to make a neater edge. I sewed the centre seam on the fabric and interfacing (overlap and stitch the interfacing), then I trimmed the full seam allowance off everywhere except the outside edge. I laid the pieces right sides (non-sticky side of the interfacing) together and then stitched around the outside edge. I trimmed carefully and clipped the seam then turned the piece right side out. I very carefully pressed around the edge to make sure it fused nicely, then I fused the whole piece.

I then attached the band to the top as per the instructions, hand basting it in place first.
The other thing I did differently (and I forgot to take a picture) is the way I treated the midriff band. On the facing piece I turned under the ends about 2cm (and trimmed) before joining it to the top part - this is to reduce bulk when inserting the zip. Next I turned in the seam allowance on the bottom of the midriff band and hand stitched it in place. The pattern has the raw edges exposed on the bottom part of the band - not pretty.
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Invisible zips are a real challenge for me, I don't know why. Maybe I am too much of a perfectionist or I just don't have the knack. Whatever it is I can never insert an invisible zip without some swear words! This one was no exception, I just couldn't get the bottom part of the seam to match up nicely and after unpicking several times the fabric started to look very fragile. I ended up have to make a couple of hand stitches but sssh, don't tell anyone!
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Because I like the inside to look as pretty as the outside (unless I'm being lazy) I made all the seams french except the armhole and centre back, which I bound. I then hand stitched the bound seam to the midriff facing to hide the bit that I turned under earlier. Here's the inside (before I had done the hem - which is just double turned and machine stitched).
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So that's it, what do you think? I was a bit worried it would 'wear me' rather than the other way around but I actually think it's quite cute and cheerful.

McCall's M5597 - The Almost Perfect Skirt

My black A-line skirt needed to be retired so I decided to replace it with a black pencil skirt. I really can't believe I've avoided pencil skirts for so long, they are actually quite flattering on a barge-arse! I used M5597, which modestly refers to itself as 'the perfect suit'. Well I don't know about the rest of the garments, but if the skirt is anything to go by, it's pretty darn good IMHO.

Hmm, I really wanted to get my new shoes into the shot (half price at Nine West), sadly my photographer didn't share my priorities. Conscious that I'm luck to have a photographer on hand at all, I didn't push it

This is the back view and it shows the only design flaw in my belief. I much prefer a vent at the back to a plain split (I mean I don't think the back of anyone's knees are attractive!). I didn't change it as I wanted to see if it would look okay, it does - just not perfect.

Here is an embarrassing insight into my life that illustrates why I like vents. While I understand (but can't comprehend) how FREEZING it is in the northern hemisphere, back here has been the hottest January on record. On Friday it was just shy of 42 degrees (that's around 108 to you fahrenheit people). I have taken to wearing long-line shorts under my skirts for comfort when it's really hot (like shapewear but not so tight). Well, let's just say I regretted that choice when I wore this skirt to work the other day. The shorts don't show below the skirt normally, but when walking they do peek through the split. Not to mention that was the day I got my stiletto stuck in the pavement and pulled off my shoe TWICE! And I've never even done that once before. I am so uncool! Moving right along...

Here's the side view.

This pattern is well drafted, goes together easily and fits really well. It doesn't have a lining which is just weird, so I added one, and I used an invisible zip. I felt there was a touch too much ease in the skirt piece so it's a little ripple-y at the yoke seam, but I think that's because I used a stretch woven, if I'd used wool it probably would have steamed out fine. You might was to check this for yourself if you choose to make one.

PS. Sew4fun, I WISH I was Hugh Jackman's dresser! No, I dressed a couple of the guys in the chorus (both really nice guys), but Hugh was lovely, always friendly and said hello, and never complained when starstruck crew members wanted their photo taken with him. *sigh*

BWOF 07-2008-108 Tunic Part 2

Today I'll show you how I face a sleeveless top without hand sewing. It's not that I am against hand sewing - in fact I really enjoy it but I find this method give a really high quality result without bulky seam allowances getting in the way. I learned it when I was working in bridal, where we used it on halter tops and sleeveless bodices. This tunic isn't strictly sleeveless so it's a bit easier than normal (you would usually have to sew the armhole in two stages) but the principle is the same so you might like to try it.

OK. So I have finished the lower armhole and joined the yokes to the rest of the tunic. I have also sewn the shoulder seams in the yoke facings.

The first thing to do is to sew the neck seam, understitch it on the facing side and then clip and press (this is the order that works best for me - and it give the smoothest results).

This next part involves a little maths. If you use seam allowances other than 1.5cm (5/8") then you will need to work this out for yourself. My little brain took ages to figure it out for 1.5cm!

Trim 0.5cm off the armhole edge of your facings, this will ensure that the facing rolls nicely to the inside of the top.



Next, open the top out so it looks like the picture below. The shoulder seams are running horizontally. Forgive my photo, I don't have photo editing software so I had to do this in crappy old paint.



Get hold of the armhole ends of the shoulder seams, facing in your left hand and yoke in your right. Bring your left hand around behind the top and match the seam ends in your right hand then pin them together. Don't think about this too much - it will hurt your brain. The top will resemble a fortune cookie at this point.
Work your way out from the seam until the entire facing edge is pinned to the yoke edge. You will need to wiggle and adjust as you go but it can be done. If the entire armhole is faced, you'll need to do this in two goes.
Sew in a 1cm seam (not 1.5cm because of what you trimmed off earlier). Your seam will not match up to the finished edge of the lower armhole but when you turn everything through to the right side you will find the yoke and facing roll nicely to the inside and look really smooth and neat. You can understitch this seam too. It is tricky but worth the patience. This is the finished armhole from the inside.
The next stage is to sew down the facings to the yoke seams on the inside. You can turn under the edge and stitch in the ditch, which is what I planned to do, but in the end I decided to hand sew this part. It really didn't take long and gave a really nice finish.

Here is the finished top. I made a narrow rolled hem on the bottom. Despite my best efforts it's a bit wonky but I intend to only wear it tucked in.
Here it is tucked in, as I'll wear it to work, bear in mind that I am a little larger than my dummy.
I'm pretty pleased with the way this top turned out. The silk satin is beautiful and not too shiny for daytime. There are a couple of creases that I can't shift so I am going to have to take it to the drycleaner to press it for me but after that it should be fairly easy-care since I pre-washed the fabric.