Monday 16 November 2009

Wardrobe Comp Review - Prima Tulip Skirt

Here is garment 7 for the wardrobe competition, a free pattern from the September 2009 Prima magazine. Prima is just your standard women's mag but I used to buy it regularly as there was always a sewing pattern in the middle. Then the patterns stopped so I didn't buy it for a long time. My Mum saw this one and told me about it, if the patterns are back I may start buying Prima again!

I have messed with the colour on this picture to try and show the pleats - they still don't show that well but my scanner is acting up and I can't scan the line drawing. The back view photo below is truer to colour.
Pattern Description:
Pegged skirt with deep pleats at the waist.

Pattern Sizing:
I cut a 16 according to my measurements, but it is a little roomy - I could have gone down a size, and I probably will take it in a smidge.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes, it really does

Were the instructions easy to follow?
I didn't need them, it's just a basic skirt with some pleats at the waist. Anyone who can sew in a zip could make this.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I love that, for once, the pattern finishes just below my knee cap. Usually I have to lengthen everything so it will finish there. I think this is a cute style, it's quite 'fashion' but still grown up.

Fabric Used:
Polyester suiting. It was quite an inexpensive fabric as I didn't want to risk anything too 'good' on a style that might not work for me and probably won't be in fashion for much longer.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:
I didn't alter the style at all but made several changes to the construction:

Note that seam allowances are included in this pattern,which makes changes a little more fiddly but not too bad, bear with me as I try to explain without visual aids...

  • I removed the hem allowance (3cm) and added a 1.5cm seam allowance onto the bottom edge. Then I traced off a hem facing rather than having to sew a pegged hem - which I can never do without puckering.
  • I overlayed the waist facing onto the front and back pattern pieces and used what was left below the facing to trace off a front and back lining pattern (adding 3cm to the top edge of the lining - 1.5cm seam allowance each for the lining and the facing).
  • When sewing, I just eased the remaining fullness on the lining pieces to the facing. This is a lot less bulky than two layers of pleats.
  • I stabilised the waist edge with selvedge cut from silk organza (applied after making the pleats), it still droops a bit from the weight of the pleats but at least it won't stretch out.

    Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
    Yes, I would definitely consider making this again.

    Conclusion:
    I am surprised at how good this skirt looks. I usually avoid this kind of shape because it adds to the parts of me I don't really want to add to. I think the secret is the deep pleats that don't pull open (the facing and lining help keep them closed too). However I may still sew the top few cm of the pleats closed just for extra security.

2 comments:

Gail said...

Great fit. I need some simple corporate looking skirts - always on the lookout for a good pattern.

Moushka said...

Josie, your garments all look terrific, and I love your tops, especially. I do notice that your skirts ride up a bit in the back, a problem I used to have until I realized I had a slightly tipped waist and needed to lower my front waistband a tich (okay, now it's 2"!!). From the back view of your skirt, it looks to me like 1 cm would do it for you, and even out the hem from front to back. Just a thought. The skirt is very flattering, what a good idea to do the hem facing.