I thought I would have to draft the pattern from scratch for this project but a quick hunt through my stash turned up Vogue 2538 (OOP).This pattern is like a bad penny (except in a good way)! Some of you may remember this pattern was a contender for my winter coat last year, but I couldn't use it because I had previously cut out a size 10 and couldn't be bothered grading it up to my current size. Kristy wrote to me at the time to let me know the dress was a winner. By some miracle I hadn't cut out the dress pattern and the 12 was still intact. Here are the original pieces:You probably can't see well but there are some really nice features - the shaped back seam and the french darts principally.
Of course there are a couple of changes needed to the base pattern to get where I need to go.
On the back:
- Added 3cm at hip level tapering back to nothing at the waist (this dress is quite narrow through the hips and that part of my body is not size 12!).
- Made a 2.5cm sway back adjustment, removing length above the waist.
- Added 2.5cm to the centre back hem length tapering to the original length at the side. I'm not sure if this will add a slight train to the back hem or compensate for the sway back - either way I'll see how it looks.
You can see the back pattern has a rather odd shape now, but I think it will stop my side seams swinging forwards.
On the front:
- Added 3 cm at the hip. I folded out the french dart before drawing in the shaping so the dart will still fit in as designed.
- Added a pleat at the centre front. The dart is 1cm wide at the neck edge and 5cm wide at the waist, with the flare continuing all the way to the hem. I added these distances twice to create the front and back of the pleat (make sense?)
- I shortened the front length by 5cm at centre front and squared out across the pleats. I followed the original hemline at the side seam for the first 10cm then used a straight line to join the two points. I hope this will be enough to mimic the hem shaping in the inspiration. I'll draw the band depth on the toille so I can see how it will look.
- I didn't do an fba, but going by the tissue measurements I should have enough room in the bust.
The pattern pieces were really difficult to photograph so I hope you can get enough details to see where I am going with this.
I'll use the original sleeves and omit the collar.
Next post I will show you the fabrics I've chosen and the toille. Fingers crossed it'll work out!